first stop: kabuki-cho

To those in the know, the mere mention of “Kabuki-cho” conjures images of the Japanese yakuza, the Chinese mafia, and the infamous licentiousness for which she has earned her place as the main red-light district in Tokyo. For me, her reputation certainly precedes her, given the numerous warnings that we were to keep away from that place during the JET Tokyo orientation at all costs. This, however, was the place that I chose to seek accommodation during this particular visit to Tokyo.

It was amazing how easy it was for me to make the decision of staying at a capsule hotel in Kabuki-cho, considering the foreknowledge of what sort of place that is. Just about 2 months ago, I had never even heard of Kabuki-cho. In fact, had I not been told otherwise, I would have thought that Kabuki-cho was a little town thriving on performing arts, in particular, Kabuki, a traditional Japanese art form. Indeed, Kabuki-cho was so named because of one man’s ambition to turn it into an artsy Kabuki centre. Fortunately or unfortunately, the trade of the flesh triumphed alongside other shady businesses that haunt the alleys of Kabuki-cho today.

Bearing all its notoriety in mind, I told myself repeatedly that I had to leave Yokohama early, as it was probably wiser for a first-timer like me to reach Kabuki-cho (in Shinjuku) before it got dark (it gets pitch dark at about 6.30 pm in autumn), so that I could get my bearings before things got too “complex”. But the futuristic Minato Mirai (along with the roller coaster ride!) and colourful Chinatown in Yokohama kept me and by the time I got out of the Shinjuku station, bright flashy neon lights and shimmering billboards have already replaced the last rays of sunshine. While I was still in the subway, a friend already waiting at an exit of the station sent me a text message, saying that the place was “full of weird people”. As it turned out, spiffy young men and women were crowding the exit of the station and my friend had earlier seen guys approaching girls for what seemed like sexual requests. That gave us a clue as to what to expect when we reach Kabuki-cho itself.